Viotia: Myths of nymphs and muses
The city: Livadeia
One of the most iconic and enchanting images of Livadeia is the stone sculpture of a female figure emerging from abundant waters—Erkyna, the nymph and companion of Persephone. This masterpiece by sculptor Spyros Gorgiotis pays homage to a myth in which Erkyna and Persephone, playing with a goose, discover a hidden spring by moving a rock. These springs are a defining feature of Livadeia, making it not simply a stop on the way to the mountains but a destination all its own for a scenic day trip.
Close to the center of town lie the Krya Gorge and the Erkyna River, offering magical walks even in winter. Stone bridges, small waterfalls, cobblestone paths, a watermill and a traditional fulling mill mark the landscape, and steep rock faces within the gorge lend themselves to climbing. Mythology enthusiasts will appreciate the ancient Oracle of Trophonius Zeus, once a mysterious site believed to be older than the Oracle of Delphi. Here, seekers drank from two springs: Lethe (Forgetfulness), to release past burdens, and Mnemosyne (Memory), to retain their newfound revelations.
Livadeia is also famous for its mouthwatering souvlaki, with dozens of grill houses lining the river banks and tempting visitors. But before indulging in a heavy meal, it might to best to work up an appetite by hiking to the remains of the 14th-century castle perched on Profitis Ilias Hill, built during the rule of the Catalan Company of Almogavars, when Spanish mercenaries fought for the Byzantine Empire. Inside the walls of the castle area stands a single structure that is home to the two churches of Aghia Varvara and Aghia Sofia, one on each floor.
The mountain: Helicon
Helicon, home to the mythical muses who inspired creativity, has always been somewhat overshadowed by its loftier neighbor, Mt Parnassos, but it has a lot to offer. Known for the summer Forest Festival in Arvanitsa, where thousands camp under fir trees and celebrate with music, Helicon becomes a more peaceful retreat in colder months. Families can enjoy relaxing walks and snow play on its gentle slopes before ducking into a warm café-taverna for a cozy break.
The region also features hiking trails leading to peaks and mountain villages. The villages of Kyriaki and Aghia Anna are charming destinations with guesthouses and tavernas; the folk art museum in Kyriaki showcases the pastoral lifestyle of the Arvanites. And make sure to drop by the nearby village of Elikonas, home to the Agricultural Folk Heritage Museum and a seasonal lake.
A trip to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Hosios Loukas Monastery is another must. Built in the 11th century, the monastery boasts stunning mosaics and Byzantine frescoes that make it well worth the short trip from Kyriaki.
Evia: Snowball fights and “crazy waters”
The city: Chalkida
Watching those clamorous birds swirling above Chalkida’s seafront promenade, it’s impossible not to recall Greek writer Yiannis Skarimbas’ poetic metaphor of seagulls as “open books.” A city where the waters beneath the Evripos Bridge shift flow direction over ten times a day, Chalkida is alive with movement – of the currents, of seagulls, and of contented visitors out for strolls.
A favorite among day-trippers from Athens, Thebes and other parts of the island of Evia, Chalkida offers vibrant winter walks, sunny café culture, and fresh seafood tavernas in neighborhoods such as Nea Lampsakos and Nea Artaki. Must-visit sites include the town’s Archaeological Museum, Folklore Museum, and landmarks such as the Karababa Fortress, a 17th-century Venetian stronghold with panoramic views.
The mountain: Dirfys
A short 30-minute drive from Chalkida is enough to leave behind the urban landscape for the traditional villages and lush forests of Mt Dirfys. In the village of Steni, the air is filled with the aromas of roasting meat and steaming beverages. Visitors shop for mountain tea, honey and homemade treats before dining on local specialties such as tyropitari (a special cheese pie) or pasta with browned mizithra cheese.
The real allure of Dirfys, however, is its natural beauty. Forests of plane, chestnut and fir trees cover mountain slopes where trails range from gentle walks to challenging climbs. Outdoor enthusiasts flock here for mountain biking, motocross and winter activities such as ice climbing and ski touring. The highest peak, Delfi (1,743 meters), offers stunning views for those up to the challenge, while the Michalis Nikolaou Refuge at 1,123 meters provides a cozy retreat for hikers and breathtaking views of the Aegean and Euboean Seas.
Whether you choose Viotia’s myth-filled valleys and cultural treasures or Evia’s dynamic blend of sea and snow, these nearby escapes offer unforgettable day trips that you can make from Athens.
This article appeared in Greece Is (www.greece-is.com), a Kathimerini publishing initiative.
